Valve to Piston Contact-damage? (on TT too)

[daffy67]

During my recent hot cam exhaust fit in my original fitment I was 1 tooth off, as my TDC wasn't quite in the centre of the inspection hole i did a manual rotation of the crank to realign and there was a definite loud knock and resistance when I rotated and I'm thinking this was valve to piston contact.
As it was only wound over once (I *might*) have done it twice I can't quite recall, what chances are there I might have broken or valve or something else?
The bike has not been started, head has not been pulled but it is back together.
Should I pull the head off and check, or start and hope?

[Lynk]

Ooph, bad luck! The proper thing would be a full inspection. Fortunately you can keep that head gasket, since you haven't yet heat-cycled it.

[shelbyguy]

check your valve clearances? if they are far off of what they should be you got a bent valve...

otherwise do a comp test?

[daffy67]

Valve clearances are fine, right on or just above .20mm which is what HotCams advise.
I'm a worry wart, it started up and runs fine.
First thing I noticed was slightly different exhaust note, have only done a brief break in ride thus far but i don't expect to notice any huge seat of the pants difference.

[Eddie O'Dell]

During my recent hot cam exhaust fit in my original fitment I was 1 tooth off, as my TDC wasn't quite in the centre of the inspection hole i did a manual rotation of the crank to realign and there was a definite loud knock and resistance when I rotated and I'm thinking this was valve to piston contact.
As it was only wound over once (I *might*) have done it twice I can't quite recall, what chances are there I might have broken or valve or something else?
The bike has not been started, head has not been pulled but it is back together.
Should I pull the head off and check, or start and hope?

Yo bud,
I was going to say before you started it..........You should be fine by being 1 tooth off. I have have seen many assemblies go ariey due to incorrect initial timing and the stories can run rampid about bent or broken internals. For good measures sake, can STOP running it and post some timing pics please. I will help you sort this. .......Thanks Eddie O'

[Eddie O'Dell]

Just to be a abit more specific. You should always maintain a valve to piston clearance of .040" to .080" depending on your parts and or build.

[daffy67]

What they were.

[daffy67]

You can see how the dot in second pic is not flush with deck of head so I moved it 1 tooth and it lines up.
First pic shows exhaust closer to 11 o'clock.

[Eddie O'Dell]

Are those slotted sprockets, if so you should time the cams using a degree wheel for best results. If the gears are not slotted then it looked like the intake cam is retarded 1 tooth, but this can be misleading due to a slotted gear situation and therefore you cant always go by lines, dots, arrows, etc. because you dont know where the cams are timed to at this time. I cant tell from the pics if the sprocket bolt is in its OWN hole or just to one side of a possible slot. The most common thing for people to do is compare the cams to stock position and reference marks. Pics from the sprocket side showing both cams together would be nice though.

[daffy67]

Sprocket side, both cams together.

[Eddie O'Dell]

Sprocket side, both cams together.

The exhaust cam/sprocket is not stock and appears to be a slotted gear. If you have not loosened the sprocket bolts then set the cam lobes to the 10:00 & 2:00 O'clock position (int. cam = 10:00 and exh. = 2:00) as viewed from right side with the crank at T.D.C. You will then need a degree wheel set up to find out what someone has set them too.